This ethnography explores the Fiesta de los Tastoanes celebrated annually by the citizens of Jocotan, Mexico, an ancient indigenous community near Guadalajara. The pageantry symbolically re-enacts the Spanish conquest of Mexico through mock battles between Santiago, the patron saint of Spain, and the Tastoanes, the leaders of the indigenous resistance. Paradoxically, the Jocotenos also honour Santiago, their special protector, and incorporate both Christian and indigenous practices and beliefs in their celebration. The author explores what the festival means to Jocoteno culture and identity and shows how it enables them to adapt to a social order dominated by Christianity.