In 1990, Maxine Jones left her job as a sub-editor on the Independent in London to work for the Sunday Tribune in Dublin, exchanging the Northern Line for the Dart, a little green train skirting Dublin Bay. Nearly 20 years later she looks back over her time there. Her three baby boys have turned into hulking 'Celtic Cubs', and with so many foreigners now on the scene, few people ask her, "Why are you here?" Excerpts from her newspaper columns and travel writing are interspersed with reminiscences and anecdotes from her daily life.