WESTWARD HOBOES T11ES11. VKR UUAcKUiT, CONTENTS CltM TER 3PAOE t. WESTWARD Ho i II. FROM NEW YORK TO ANTOINE S .... 7 III. A LONO WAYS FROM HOME 15 IV. CHIVALRY vs. GUMBO 25 V. NIBBLING AT THE MAP OF TEXAS .... 35 VI. quot DOWN BY THE Rio GRANDE quot ...... 47 Vrt. SANDSTORMS, BANDITS AND DEAD SOLDIERS . 60 VIII. TUCSON 74 IX. TWENTY PER CENT GRADES, FORTY PER CENT VANILLA 82 X, THE APACHE. TRAIL AND TONTO VALLEY . . 98 XL FRIDAY THE THIRTEENTH 121 XII. WHY ISLETA S CHURCH HAS A WOODEN FLOOR . 148 XIII. SANTE FE quot AND THE VALLEY OP THE Rio GRANDE 6o XIV. SAYING GOOD-BY TO BILL 190 XV. LACUNA AND ACOMA ........ 204 XVI, THE GRAND CANYON AND THE HAVASUPAI CANYON 22 CONTKNTS CHAfTKK XVII. FlU M WlLLIAMK TO FORT Al ACHE .... 4 XVII I. THE LAND OF THK Hoi amp gt is 344 XIX. THE FOUR CORNERS 2- 8 XX. RAINHOW HRIPGK . j a XXL THK CANYON UK CIIKI. LKY ...... aq amp gt XXII. NORTH OF GAT. UTP . 308 XXIII. ON NATIONAL PARKS AND CUH amp gt KS .... . 6 XXIV. THK NAIL-FILE AND THK CimnKWA, . . 4 1 XXV. HOMEWARD HOBOES ........ ILLUSTRATIONS The silver bracelet, Walpi Frontispiece FACING I AOE Our first camp, Texas 52 San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson, and the Rapago Indian village 76 Doorway of San Xavier Del Bac, Tucson 78 Great rocks seem to float on the stream, mysteriously lighted, like Btfeklin s isle of the dead 116 Natural bridge, Pine, Arizona 118 The church at Jsleta 152 Her bread was baked, delicious and crusty, in the round out door ovens her grandmothers used as far back as B. C. or so 154 Against a shady wall, all but too lazy to light the inevitable cigarette, slouches, wherever one turns, a Mexican . . 164 A Mexican morado, New Mexico 166 The museum of Santa F6 166 Santa Domingo woman176 Taos woman 176 Koshari rain dance San Yldefonso 176 Rain dance, San Yldefonso 178 Cave dwellings in the pumice walls of Canyon de Los Fri joles, Santa F6 182 Artist s studio in Taos, New Mexico i 8 vii ILLUSTRATIONS t S amp lt Vfc Coronado was the first white man to visit thk nnrirnf pm-hlo at Taos, New Mexico ......... The car sagged drunkenly on one side ....... - amp gt oo Fording a river near Santa F6 ......... f amp gt On the way to Gallup ........... amp lt amp gt Pueblo women grinding corn in metate bins, . Jof amp gt Pueblo woman wrapping deer-nkm leggins ., .,, wo Acoma, New Mexico ............ m Burros laden with lire-wood, Hunt a Fe, New Mexico, . ju At the foot of the trail, Acoma ......... at. The enchanted mesa, Acoma, New Mexico ..... 14 A street in Acoma, New Mexico, ..... JiS The Acoma Mission, Now Mexico . ..... jtH In the Grand Canyon of the Colorado ....... u A Navajo maid on a painted pony ., ...... tts The land of the sky-blue water, Huvnsupai C. inyon, Ari, on, 4 Horseman in Havusupai C anyon, Arix amp lt ma . ..... - ufi Panorama of Havasupai Canyon, Arizona .., , , H Hooney s Fall, ITavasupal amp lt 1 anyon, Arizona ..... j, A trout stream in the White Mountains, Ari. oiu . . . 440 The village of Walpi, ., , ., .... J Q Oldest house in Walpi ......, ., ., Young eaglet captured for m in the Hop Mintk ceremonies ......., ., Second mesa, Ilopi Reservation A Hotavilla Sybil .... vi ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Navajo Mountain from the mouth of Scgi Canyon . . . 278 Rainbow Bridge Trail near Navajo Mountain ..... 282 Crossing Bald Rock, on Rainbow Biidge Trail .... 284 Rainbow Bridge, Utah, 286 Monument country, Rainbow Trail 294 Rainbow Bridge Trail 204Entrance to the Canyon de Ohelley 2p8 Quicksand Canyon de Chelley 300 Near the entrance of Canymi de Chelley, Arizona . . . 302 Cliff-dwellings, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona 304 Casa Blanca, Canyon de Chelley, Arizona 306 Navajo sheep-clipping at Shiprock . . . . . . . .312 Cliff-dwellings, Mesa Verde Park, Colorado 316 ShoshoneH tit sun dance, Fort Hall, Idaho 322 A Shoshone teepee, Fort Hull, Idaho ...