Fabric and materials account for at least half the production cost of garments. Consequently, the effective control of materials is a major objective in clothing production. Key areas for production control are discussed, with particular reference to factors affecting the utilisation of markers and fabric. Principles for purchasing fabrics are outlined and related to the way companies operate in the market, recent moves towards material requirements planning, and the greater use of information technology for communications between suppliers and customers. Specifications, inspection techniques and the potential for economies by greater cooperation between suppliers and purchasers are also discussed.